Good Morning Samoa

Just a few pictures from around our house this morning! 

our across the street neighbors

our front yard

our side yard (looking out the ocean)

Samoan Attire 101: The Puletasi

I’ve accumulated a Samoan style wardrobe over the past year, and, recently, I’ve been dramatically adding to the number of puletasis that I own. I thought I would take a picture each time I wear one to show you the latest and greatest in Samoan fashions. It will be like our own fashion week runway show (but instead of leggy 5’ 11’ models you get me :) 

Puletasi 

(poo-le-tah-see) 

-noun

1. a woman’s formal wear outfit in the traditional Samoan culture. It consists of a top and long skirt. 

The first step to obtaining a puletasi is the acquisition of fabric. If you want to fit in, you should choose a loud, colorful print that makes you stand out in the crowd. 

If possible, try and find something that is not stiff and uncomfortable. Completing this step is highly unlikely so just go with what looks pretty.   

After you’ve picked up your fabric from the likes of Forsgrens or the Tuttu’ila store, make your way to your favorite sewing shop. There are about 40,000 on the island with a population of 65,000...okay, okay, an exaggeration, but only a slight one. Basically, sewing shops are like the mainland Starbucks- there is one on every corner. I prefer Athena’s Boutique which is not nearly as posh as it sounds. Athena’s is tucked into a corner of Steven & Sons (picture a ghetto convenient store, reduce the brand options, throw in some chicken in the parking lot). But don’t let it’s drab look fool you, this 2 seamstress enterprise is quite the quality place. A puletasi will cost you $27($2 higher than the going rate elsewhere but the end result is worth it). 

Explain to the seamstress what you would like (or draw it out if your like me). Samoan’s get all sort of fancy necklines and trim that you would typically only see on tacky version of Project Runway. Ugly you may think....I did too when I first arrived...but the peculiars of the Samoan fashion will go on you after a few cold coconuts. 

The seamstress will then measure you, and let you identify all the particulars: the width of the neck, the length of the skirt, the length of the sleeve. One week later and badda boom, badda bag: you have a puletasi!

The bottom is a simple wrap skirt, and they are usually floor length. I mean who wants to stay cool in this tropical weather?! Traditionally the sleeve reach to mid upper-arm, but if your a palagi like me and like a bit of comfort, you would have a cap sleeve. The top zips up the back (unlike any US construction), and if you are a Samoan woman you would order it to fit 3 sizes too small so you basically bust out the seams. Ladies have you every heard of flattering your figure? 

Despite the usually stiff and uncomfortable fabric, I’ve come to love the puletasi. Samoans love to see me embracing the culture, and if I dawn the garb I usually get enough compliments to inflate the ego a bit. The best thing? They rave about how skinny I am! Me? Skinny? Not usually the description I get. I’m petite and certainly not fat, but I definitely can’t wear a bandaid for a belt. Oh, how I will miss Samoa when I return to the land of 6’ 100lbs models. I really prefer the preferences of Samoan beauty :) 

And without further ado, I present to you today’s puletasi... Stay tuned for your next Samoan Attire lesson! 

Bagel Bonanza

It’s funny how when your so far from home the littlest semblances of normalcy and western life become such a big deal. The highlight of my weekend was discovering bagels at Cost-U-Less. I never saw them last year, and though I’m not a bagel fanatic at home, I always daydreamed of bagels and cream cheese. Oh such luxuries that say only 6,000 miles away. I think my eyes lit up like a little girl on Christmas morning when she discovers a life size Barbie jeep under the Christmas tree. (I always wanted one of those.) Anyway, bagels were a prize I only dreamt of....until now! We bought the 16 pack  and they are now filling our freeze! 

The Return to Samoana...Dun Dun Dun

This week I was finally able to make my return to the great Samoana HS. PiCED is working on a special 6 month leadership program, and we are looking for 6 Youth Leaders and 60 participants from around the island. We have a team of 2 staff members that are handling the project, but I decided to make the presentation to a group at Samoana. I was nervous to be on campus again...would the kids be excited? 

We pulled up in front of the history building, and as I got out of the car all of the kids in the building ran up to the windows and outside of the class screaming, “Ms. Jessie!! Ms. Jessie!! Hey Ms. Jessie!!” It was adorable and heart warming and amazing....... (I have to pause for a proud teacher moment)..... They were so cute and excited to see me, and I think I was ten times as happy to see them! (Though, from an onlookers perspective it probably looked like one of those “Save Africa” infomercials.... All the kids running towards me, others looking through the classroom windows longingly.) They begged me to come back and be their teacher and replace those of their least favorite, current teachers, but everywhere I looked there were smiling, eager faces ready for acknowledgement. 

As we made our way through campus the shouts continued, and I knew I had made the right choice coming back to work with the American Samoan kids again. We entered the classroom where we were presenting to the NHS, and I waited in a corner until the kids started trickling in... I knew lots of familiar faces would soon fill the room. As the students entered many of them did a double take... “Is that really Ms. Jessie”... and then ran over for “Hellos” and hugs. Oka, I missed them! After I talked about our project I hung around to catch up with some of my favs and they promised to come to PiCED a lot this year. I love my work as Project Manager but I miss seeing my kids in that classroom environment everyday! I start teaching a class in a week and a half...I can’t wait! 

Our Special House Guests

If you’ve been following the blog, you probably have noticed that the topic ghosts has popped up a few times. I’m still not sure if I believe in them, but something is weird at our house. Ethan and I will be in our room, and we will regularly hear doors slam shut when the windows are closed and there isn’t a breeze. Today we noticed a noise that sounded like our dining room chairs being pulled out. One night as I was in the kitchen I heard something that sounded exactly like a finger tapping on the window...but nothing was visibly there....no I was not imagining it...no it was not water droplets or rain...no it was not an insect flying into the window....I’m not sure what it was. I will admit that I am a bit weirded out by these. 

As I mentioned in an earlier post, Jason (who works at Tisa’s) gave us some ghostly advice. He says ghosts are everywhere in American Samoa- but especially on the east and west sides of the island (Great!). He gave us the sea salt to put around the house, and some advice: “Take ownership of your house. Let them no it’s your house and you won’t stand for this!” Ethan and I got a kick out of this. Ethan keeps joking that his going to get a bag of popcorn, sit on the couch, and film me “taking control.” That would be an instant youtube hit.... “the girl who talks to ghosts!” 

Today we were hearing the noises, so Ethan walked into the living room talking to our imaginary friends. “Dude stop slamming our doors. It’s getting old,” he told them. He then proceeded to have a stern talk with them. So he took control...but will the noises stop? 

Laying In Hammocks

This weekend was a lazy one spent in Fa’ilolo reading....half of the time in a hammock laying in the ocean breeze. 

my backyard and hammock. 

(actually, it's Ethan's hammock but I stole it for the day)

Life can't be too bad when this is what you look at everyday. 

our pup, Princess

Punting Toads

As Ethan and I were walking back from our little village store, I accidentally kicked something in the street...Only it wasn’t something light like littered coke; it caused me to stumble over it a second...Then it jump back on my foot. Yes, I kicked a massive toad, and it left it’s belly slime all over my foot. Those who live/lived here can attest to the fact that Samoan toads aren’t ordinary toads that sit on your front porch in Texas....Samoan toads are like Mainland toads that have bred with Godzilla. They are huge and nasty and try to trip me.  

Trying the “Local” Cuisine

Ethan has taken to the act of trying to gross me out by eating “as the locals do.” Local favorites like vienna sausages straight from a can, canned sardines, canned tuna, and canned corned beef have been on his appetizer menu this week. Blahhhh. 

Thankyoulord

Some Samoans have English names, some Samoans have Samoan names, others have....phrases for names. 

A student named Thankyoulord came to PiCED today. His first name is Thankyoulord! How crazy is that?! I think he has become number 1 on my list of unique names. A very close win over Super Bowl Dallas Mac Jr Mac (who Thanh and Kate taught last year). 

In Samoa names are not as common as in the States. For example there isn’t a pool of accepted names that people choose from: Sarah, Ashley, Jessica, Michael, Christopher. Instead people draw their naming inspiration from all over the place, and, thus, it is not as common for 2 people to have the same name. Last year I only had 1 set of boys with the same name (Alfred). I’ve included some names I’ve run across in the past year...

Religious-theme-named: Blessing, Rosary, Missionary, Easter, Miracle.

Unusual Names:  Arbor Day, Donation, Queen Mary, Super Bowl Dallas Mac Jr Mac

Words as Samoan First Names: Fa’afetai (“Thank you”), Talofa (“Hello”), Nofoa (“Chair”), Fale (“House”)

These are some Samoan names just for reference: Leolemau, Pikasone, Faleupolu, Asalemo, Tulilli, Tafatafa, Logi, Moenu, Ioasa, Feaig’aiga.  

My First Samoan Mass

Pule invited us to attend Leone’s Catholic church for today’s special Feast Day mass. It was the church’s birthday, so they planned a special ceremony. Ethan and I were slightly nervous about attending; since the church only holds mass in Samoan, it was unlikely that there would be any other palagi. We dressed in our church outfits only to have a minor crisis... Did we have to wear all white? Most of the island’s churches were special, all white, Sunday outfits. I knew that the Catholic church didn’t require it, but was a feast day different!? Yikes. We tried to call Nape for the answer, but she didn’t pick up. Oh, no! We made a plan, if we saw everyone was dressed in white, we would turn around and go home. If there were others in colorful outfits, we would go. Luckily, we pulled up and noticed a decent amount of people in color. The majority were in white but enough were dressed in other colors. 

 Ethan donned his i’e fitagas (formal man-skirt) for the occasion. Many young Samoan guys were shorts under them, but Ethan prefers the boxers only method. But Samoa is windy......and who knows when a strong gust could lead to embarrassment. Ethan threw some basketball shorts into the car, and that was a smart idea. He immediately put them on once he realized how strong the winds were :) 

Rosa met us there, and I immediately felt like we were a spectacle. It’s odd to always be the minority, combat the stares from all directions, and hear whispers of “palagi, palagi!” We tried to sneak a seat in the back, but, of course, we messed up and sat in the seats that were reserved for the choir. An usher saw us and escorted us all the way to the front section reserved for special guests. I was nervous but was excited to see the Samoan cultural aspects of mass. As we waited, the congregation participated in a chanting of prayers. On person would chant a line, and the crowd would repeat. Another person would chant a line, and the crowd would repeat again. All of a sudden the chanting stopped and everyone stood and turned to go outside. Realizing that we probably had no idea about what was going on, a kind man came over and explained that the mass would be starting outside. Across the street from the church is a large statue of Jesus. Everyone gathered around the statue, and the choir sang a song. The ushers, dressed only in siapo i’es (traditionally patterned skirts) with bare and oiled chests and backs, led the procession back into the church. 

Before the usual mass started, there was an hour of cultural practices. First, the alter boys all paraded down the aisle. They, too, were dressed in just the siapo i’es. Then, the church president moved to the front, sat, and was covered by a fine mat (a large hand-woven mat that serves as traditional currency and is used during many of the traditional events). This is the practice of forgiveness. A leader kneels under a fine mat until the “forgiver” makes peace. This traditional practice is usually used when one family wrongs another. The village high chief of the “out-of-line family,” kneels under a fine mat before the wronged family’s house. The chief must stay there until the family comes out and decides to make peace and forgive. During the mass, this ceremony was symbolic of the church president asking the priest forgiveness for the congregation’s sins. From there, 2 of the high talking chiefs with their staffs stood on either side of the church and did a sort of reenactment ceremony. We still haven’t figured out what was said. The taupo (village “princess” - the daughter of the highest chief), dressed in the large head piece and siapo dress, performed a traditional siva dance. After her dance, the normal proceedings of a mass occurred (though we obviously didn’t understand what was being said). Before communion, a large group of the congregation paraded with offerings - flower leis, fine mats, and new robes for the church officials- and laid them at the foot of the alter.     

Though we didn’t understand most of the ceremony, it was interesting to see how the Catholic faith has been infused with Samoan culture and traditional island customs. Though 100 years ago, Christian missionaries of every denomination came to the South  Pacific and converted the island’s population, the new faiths have been blended with Samoan influences.

Us in our church outfits: 

Weekend Feasts

For the past few days, Ethan and I have be fortunate enough to be the recipients of Rosa’s delicious cooking. She invited over for dinner on Friday night and she made a scrumptious chicken pasta dish. Many of the WT volunteers came over to participate in a fantasy football draft. Though only a few people new much about football, the group took turns picking players and forming their rosters. Ethan formed a team based on players with cool names and Brenden's (the football encyclopedia) advice. After a night of football, we decided to go out to the Bowling Alley.  Drew desperately wanted to get out of the house, so we headed there at 10pm despite knowing the crowd doesn’t arrive until midnight. Basically, the Bowling Alley just became another venue to hold our group of palagis as we talked. Just after midnight when we could tell the place wasn’t going to get much more crowded, we called it a night. We promised to return to the Mesepa house (my old home) the next day, as Rosa wanted to through a feast.

Rosa is Jewish and wanted to celebrate Rosh Hashanah. She cooked a mid-afternoon feast of spinach and cheese on pancakes (YUM!), chicken, potatoes, rice, stuffing, and dessert. Mmm it was good. I’m glad Rosa likes to cook and entertain..... as I most definitely can’t figure my way around a kitchen.     

On a side note: Rosa and April live in my house from last year. Except it has now turned into a mini WT compound, as Drew and Bret live in the front house that used to be occupied by a tiny, frail, old man. It’s kind of strange hanging out in “my house”... that isn’t really my house anymore. It definitely makes it a comfortable and familiar place to be, though it looks different as we had made it our own by decorating the walls with Samoan carved weapons and siapo paintings. 

One Parent at a Time

Tonight we held the first every CAPP Workshop - the College Application Process for Parents Workshop. We are going to host an event one night a month in which parents can come to PiCED to learn all about the college app process, financial aid, scholarships, etc. One of the major reasons Samoan students don’t apply to college is the information gap. Students and their families aren’t familiar the the process and don’t realize that financial aid will pay for their education. We had a small turn out for the first workshop, 7 parents, but it was a great test run to see if the information we presented was what they were interested in. It turned out to be a great success. The parents were enthusiastic about their newfound knowledge and were geared up to begin helping their students through the process. Often times, students who are hopeful to attend off-island schools don’t peruse their goals because parental involvement and support is lacking. Many parents, uneducated themselves, don’t see the point of higher education.. or education at all. I saw this a lot in my year at Samoana HS, on parent night a meager 7 parents from my 120 students would show up. Our goal is to foster better parent relations with their children to encourage them to be active participants throughout their children’s education.  

Obey the Waves

For the 3 day labor day weekend, Ethan and I finally decided to enjoy ourselves a little. On Saturday Ethan woke up at the crack of dawn to go hiking with a group of the WT Volunteers. They headed to Vatia to hike up the trail to Mt Alava and then down to the Fagasa Pass. I decided to sit this one out since I had some work to do, just got over being sick, and can’t shake the connection between intense hikes and dengue fever. Ugh. I was domestic and did about 1400 loads of loads or laundry and dishes before working on a work presentation. As expected, the hike was killer, and Ethan fell asleep right away when he returned home at 4 pm. 

On Sunday we decided to go out to Tisa’s Barefoot Bar on the east side. We picked up Drew, Bret, and Veronica (WT volunteers) on our way. Another group was supposed to meet us there, but their ride didn’t pull through. We were bummed out since it was raining and cloudy when we arrived but kept our fingers crossed for a change in the weather. As we waited for the skies to clear, we drank pina coladas, chatted, and ate a delicious meal. The Candy Man (who run’s the joint with Tisa) whipped up delicious meals with chicken (or swordfish), rice, local salad, and cooked orange bananas! Yum! Jason, Tisa’s son, is quite the talker and gave Ethan and I lots of advice on how to deal with the island’s ghosts. Before we knew it, he filled a bag of sea salt and told us to spread it around our doors and windows to keep away the spirits.....It’s still sitting on my dresser :) The sun finally came out so we could swim for a while. The tide was high, the water a bit choppy, and the current was strong, so we didn’t go too far out, but the swim was well worth the wait! 

Tisa's Barefoot Bar

Flags from around the world...

Yes, that is a Texas A&M flag hanging in the background. 

I plan to replace it with a UT one soon :)

Ethan & I at Tisa's

After the beach we joined up with a few other friends and all 7 of us crammed into the little car (just like old times) and went to the theater to see Salt. A large popcorn became our dinner.....when in Samoa, eat like Samoans :)

On Monday, some work had to be done at the office to prepare for the next day’s workshop, but we thought we would enjoy Sliding Rock first. We were just 5 or 10 minutes behind the WT volunteers and reached the big swimming hole just after the “incident.” We were up on the drop off of the rock’s edge trying to plot the best course to climb down when Rosa rushed over and exclaimed, “It’s too dangerous! We’re leaving! Don’t come down.” She preceded to turn around and show us her shoulder that was bright red with blood. The week before I had warned the group that Sliding Rock can be a dangerous place where rogue waves are known to make their mark, and they got to experience that first hand. Apparently a few minutes before we made it over the rocks, a big wave completely knocked 3 of them down and plunged them into the rocks. Luckily they weren’t seriously injured and managed to scramble to safety. As they were trying to cross back over the waterhole, a wave caused another spill. By the time the group made it to where Ethan and I were waiting, most of them had fallen at least once and they were comparing their injuries. The 3 most injured we ready to get home, so I offered to drive them.... I don’t think a bus ride would have been run with blood dripping down from their wounds.... Ethan and the “non injured” stayed to hang out for a while. After dropping them off, I headed to the office for a day of fun-filled work! (can you sense the sarcasm? :)